Eric Hansen writes about travel as a participating enthusiast
rather than a mere observer. (46) It gives these nine essays, based on
his adventures over the past quarter- century, a resonance and psychological
depth not usually seen in more routine travel narratives.
(47) The reader follows wide-eyed from the armchair as Mr. Hansen
journeys from the French Riviera to the South Pacific, India, the United States
and Borneo. Each story combines nuanced portraits of memorable characters
with lyrical descriptions of human fallibility and generosity.
In his wildest tale, Mr. Hansen recounts his time working at a hotel on
Thursday Island in the Torres Strait. (48) "Seldom," he writes, "does
one have the chance to enjoy the company of people who have so completely given
themselves over to the cultivation of the low life in such style and with such
gusto. " (49) Beyond the booze, broken glass and fist fights, the author learns
the history of the island’s pearl divers who, in canvas suits and lead-weighted
shoes, snatch gold-lip pearl shells from a seabed teeming with sea snakes, giant
groupers and saltwater crocodiles. Other stories tell of
drinking hallucinogenic kava in Vanuatu; lingering on a beach with a beautiful
Maldivian girl in a pleasurable pursuit that the locals call "night fishing";
cooking piroshki with a Moscow Moscow in a tiny manhattan apartment while drug
dealers shoot each other in the lobby below; and watching the Indonesian crew of
a becalmed tall ship dance on deck to country and western music.
(50) The most moving story comes from Kolkata (formerly Calcutta),
where the author’s frustration at the impenetrable bureaucracy when trying to
ship his belongings home is put into perspective by his voluntary work at Mother
Theresa’s home for the dying. Here he bathes, feeds and comforts the
inhabitants of the men’s ward, where the panic and despair of death are replaced
by dignity and humour. This sensitive portrait alone makes this heartfelt
collection a magical and uplifting read.